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The Truth About Bugs in the Worm Bin: How to Tackle Your Problems and Avoid Wanting to Quit

Dreaming of rainbows and butterfies

Okay lets face it, anyone who follows my YouTube channel The Crazy Worm Lady, knows how freaked out I get over bugs.  I still laugh at myself knowing how naive I was when started out.  I pictured a gorgeous bin with nothing but tons of worms and castings.  I swore up and down, “over my dead body will I allow bugs to invade my bins”!  The judgmental side of me laughed at other YouTubers who shared their bug plights.  The uneducated me thought that they MUST be doing something wrong.

However, it was me who was wrong.

In a well-established bin, bugs should not only be expected, but respected as well.  You heard me right, I respect the bugs in my bins.  The complexity of soil structure and the ecosystem that exists with decomposing matter was a foreign concept to me.

When I started seeing mites, grain beetles and drain flies in my bin those first few months, I was distraught.  I remember in particular pulling a squash from my garden that a groundhog got to.  I froze it and laid out two slices in my Worm Factory 360.  I opened the lid a few days later and it was CRAWLING with grain beetles and red mites.

I frantically scoured the internet and had dreams about bugs in my bed.  I was literally jumping to an unrealistic scenario.  I waited with bated breath for replies to my requests for help on a worm forum.  I was days away from dumping it all in the yard and calling it quits.

Shortly after this, I started seeing drain/sewer flies.  They were hanging out on the walls next to my bin.  It was an all out war that I waged against my bin.  I stopped feeding, I draped mosquito netting over my bin and worried incessantly about whether or not I could do this.

Could I come to accept this as reality?  Could I continue to remain calm and not think about the bugs 24/7?  Was I doing something wrong?  Was I too hasty in starting with the hobby?

Well the long and short of it is… I was doing just fine.  There’s a learning curve with vermicomposting just like with anything else.  I have come to appreciate my problems as they have all taught me how to manage my bins more effectively and efficiently.  Am I perfect?  Heck no, but I continue to learn and grow every day.

What Bugs Can You Expect in Your Bins?

I have seen quite a number of bugs over the course of my worm composting experience.  I have seen fruit flies, drain flies, mites, springtails, grain beetles, pot worms, one lone earwig and one large beetle (stubborn bugger won’t leave) who should be named “The Joker” as he freaks me out and makes an appearance on the regular.  He likes to poke fun at my bug-phobic ego.

In outdoor bins there are other bugs that could make an appearance such as ants, slugs, snails, cockroaches, black soldier fly larvae, millipedes, centipedes and isopods of various sorts.

Black soldier fly larvae. Photo courtesy of Michele Palmer.

Which Bugs Are Good?

The short answer is that most of these bugs are good!  Most bugs are active decomposers and pose no threat to the worms.  An exception may be slugs, snails, and high numbers of black soldier fly larvae.  These are only typically seen in outdoor compost ventures.  I say this without too much concern because unless they are in high numbers you probably have little to worry about.

I don’t have any experience in outdoor bins just yet (more to come on that as I start an outdoor bin this summer) so I will not claim to be an expert on the topic of outdoor worm bin pests, but read on for information regarding how to combat and/or eliminate complete and total outbreaks of these worm bin pests indoors.  A balance is good, an overabundance is probably indicating you need to address a problem with your worm bin situation.

What Methods Can I Use to Help Minimize Bugs in the Worm Bin?

Usually an outbreak of any one particular bug is indicating either a problem or a lack of proper worm bin care.  I can attest to the fact that 99% of my worm bin pests have most likely been because of poor care and/or laziness on my part.

1. Bedding and Covering Scraps Adequately:

Okay, if you are anything like me, you like to poke around in the bins frequently and can get lazy on occasion.  Usually most of your pest problems can be greatly reduced by using bedding effectively and burying your scraps.  This is where I am guilty of poor care.  I admit it, I don’t always feel like soaking bedding, laying it on thick and burying or re-burying my scraps after poking around.

I find that fruit flies are the biggest problem with this worm-care mistake.  Like it or not, many of our fruits and veggies have fruit fly eggs laid on or in their skins when we purchase them.  To eliminate an outbreak, simple steps such as adding 1-2 inches of thick (and dry) bedding on top of your bin will make it almost impossible for the hatchlings to make it out or the adults to get back in and lay more eggs.  I would always suggest a thick (but breathable of course) cover over your scraps/bins.  I prefer cardboard or newspaper.  Coconut coir, peat moss and many other bedding sources will probably work just as well though.

2. Managing Your pH:

Yep, sounds a bit complicated, but the worms and the bin conditions usually give you some tell-tale ques regarding whether or not your bin is getting acidic.  You want a relatively neutral pH in your bin.

That being said, there is NO NEED to purchase a pH meter.  In order to get an accurate pH, you need to spend $100 or more on a meter and that just isn’t a realistic or smart purchase for most of us.

I have researched and done my own mini-experiments with pH in my bins.  I find that many worm bin bugs prefer a slightly more acidic environment.  Pot worms, mites and springtails to name a few.

Red mites. Photo courtesy of Pam Beers.

What do you do if you are seeing these bugs in abundance?  Add a “buffer”.  A buffer is simply an additive to your bin which helps raise the pH to a more suitable environment to the worms and less suitable to the pests.

Some really good buffers include crushed egg shells, ground oyster shells such as this one and dolomite lime (organic garden lime) try this one.  The calcium content in these additives is not only good for our soil and castings, but great at raising the pH just enough to regulate the balance in the system.  I have used all of these with success in my bins.  Remember though that it is a waiting game, and one that demands the practice of patience to allow things to normalize again.

3. Use Organic Pest Control Products:

I never endorse buying things for your worm bin unless completely necessary.  I live by the adage that buying products for the worm bin somewhat goes against the idea of a cheap/free hobby that focuses on sustainability and doing good for the environment.  That being said, I like to try things out so that I not only learn myself, but gain knowledge that I can share with you as well.  Let me be your guinea pig!

The first product that I tried and continue to use is Diametacious Earth (DE).  DE is not only organic, but also has calcium and other trace minerals that benefits the soil and pH.  DE works best when dry.  This can be a challenge in a moist worm bin, but I have found that laying a dry piece of cardboard on top of my bin, sprinkling it with DE and laying some sort of bait (whatever food you are seeing the bugs go after the most) on top… it can be rather effective.  DE works by drying out the exoskeleton of many “crawly” worm bin pests.  When the exoskeleton is dried/rubbed off, the bugs dry out and die.  DE works great on mites, springtails and ants. This is what I use

Neem cake and Neem Oil are something else I have utilized with success.  Neem is an organic component that comes from the Neem evergreen tree.  It is touted for many positive attributes not only in the garden as a pest repellent but also in health for its antifungal and antimicrobial properties.  It is harvested primarily in India.  Neem works as a fertilizer to the soil (containing NPK: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) and also inhibits the proliferation of negative microbes in the soil.

I have found in practice that neem reduces the number of mites in my bins.  If the neem oil I use this, is rubbed around the rims of my bins I see 100% elimination of any noticeable mites running around the lids/rims of my bins.  For me, reducing that “ick factor” is well worth the investment and knowing that the neem cake (feed that can be fed to the worms in the bin) is also good for my soil is a win:win I have tried this.

4. Stop Feeding:

Some worm bin pests boom when we overfeed.  Acidity and pH imbalances go hand in hand with overfeeding.  Not a good combination of factors.

Several times when I have had outbreaks of mites I have stopped feeding my bins for several weeks while adding some dry bedding.  I allow the bin to self-regulate.  The worms won’t starve.  I promise.  Remember from my previous posts, bedding also acts as food for the worms, so waiting two, three, even four weeks won’t kill of a bin of worms… in fact it is likely to help them!

It seems to go against what we think we need to do.  Just like with our dogs and cats.  We act impulsively, knowing that we need to feed our pets.  The difference with worms is that they can re-process the castings they have created and their bedding is an additional food source making it damn near impossible to starve them.  So, relax, take a deep breath and stop adding food.  It’s almost guaranteed to lower the population of pests.  Fret not.  I have been there and my worms are still thriving despite my “neglect”.

5.  Make a Physical Barrier:

My final suggestion is to create “physical barriers”.  In certain circumstances, placing a barrier over or surrounding your bin will make a world of difference.  I find that physical barriers are super-effective at reducing or eliminating fruit flies.  If you take away their access to your bins, you eliminate them.  The one specific way I did this was with mosquito netting.  Others have used window-screens, weed cloth, and plastic bags (I don’t recommend this due to the possibility of limiting oxygenation in the bin).

This works by restricting the access into your bins.  We all know that aeration is critical to the aerobic process of worm composting.  Worms need air to live.

When I had an outbreak of fungas gnats/drain flies, I draped my Worm Factory in mosquito netting like this and rubber-banded it around the legs.  This made it nearly impossible for the fruit flies and gnats to enter the bin and lay more eggs thus perpetuating the crappy cycle of fighting them in my living room.  I consider this a last-ditch effort because it is annoying to deal with and seems a bit extreme to me after learning of all the alternatives.

That being said, if you are ready to throw-in the towel, buy a mosquito net or some window screen.  Cover any entrances to your bin and see what happens.  I bet you will see a reduction and maybe even an elimination of the problem.

The Takeaway:

Don’t be discouraged!  Don’t become overwhelmed and overthink whether or not this hobby is for you!  With some simple steps, you can reduce the number of worm-bin pests in your home.  I promise you won’t regret sticking it out.  It is a process, it takes time to learn exactly how to do everything, but that isn’t a reason to quit!  Think of why you started.  Sustainability?  Organic fertilizer?  A way to process an excess of food?

I am the first to admit that to this day I continue to struggle to get over the mental gross-out I get thinking of bugs in my worm bins.  I will say however that I have yet to see a single pest outside of the bin.  Maybe a fruit fly, but I don’t have mites or springtails in my bed.  I don’t have pot worms in the houseplants or kitchen.  No mites running about my counter-tops.  I have come to realize that these pests are not interested in leaving the haven they have in the moist, decaying matter within the worm bin.  My house is free of pests short of the occasional ant… don’t overthink it.

If you are seriously bugged out (see what I did there?)… I have fallen in love with the Urban Worm Bag (still new to me) I am looking forward to my first harvest soon!  This system is a continuous flow through bag that is breathable but zips completely shut!  This minimizes the bug problem substantially.  Buy One Here.

Try some of my suggestions.  Let me know how it goes and reap the benefits of the incredible “black gold” your worms make for you.  If we want to heal our planet, a springtail or mite isn’t worth a single moment of concern.


** Disclosure: The links within this post are ‘affiliate links’.  This simply means if you click the link and purchase one of these items, I will receive an affiliate commission.  **

7 thoughts on “The Truth About Bugs in the Worm Bin: How to Tackle Your Problems and Avoid Wanting to Quit

  1. Good blog Emily. A quote- “The one specific way I did this was with mosquito netting. Others have used window-screens, weed cloth, and plastic bags (I don’t recommend this due to the possibility of limiting oxygenation in the bin).” Sounds like all three mentioned items are not recommended. I know what you meant, but it could be confusing to a newbie.
    You’re right- the bin itself will give you cues that there is an issue, as well as how severe it may be. A little “Bug Juice” never hurt a worm bin, it’s just part of a system that works by the Grace of Higher Authority. <

    1. Absolutely. You want to avoid anything that doesn’t breathe. The message is that a barrier of sorts can help once flies have moved in. Thanks for giving it a read. Have a great day!

  2. Love your writing style and, of course, the great content! A tip on Amazon links: Use “open in new window” setting so that a person can go back to reading your blog but keep shopping on your Amazon site. Anything they buy in something like 24 hours still gives you the well deserved credit. Today I went ahead and got some diatomaceous earth and appreciate your experimentation, which I would be too scared to try with my worms.

    1. You will love the DE. It’s excellent and has multiple benefits. Let me know how it goes. Thank you for the compliment on my writing. I enjoy it very much but don’t always feel like it comes across as well as I would like. I appreciate your support.

      1. I also got the mosquito netting you recommended in the Physical Barrier section. Just draped over the bin with no rubber bands works like a charm to eliminate compost gnats. And it gives my bin a sort of “jungle explorer” motif. Best 5 bucks I’ve ever spent on myself because the gnats were bugging me. They’re gone!

  3. Emily you suggest DE for springtails! Thanks!! I sold some vermicompost this spring that had springtails in it! I let my customers know what they were and assured them it was part of a healthy living ecosystem! Well one lady planted seeds using the vermicompost and found a bunch of springtails huddled around her seeds and posted a video saying that none of her seeds germinated because the springtails were eatting the fine root hairs! That has been the end of my sales for the season!!! I’m perinoid now to sell any more and when I posted this nobody responded that they have ever had this happen to them. Have you experienced this at all???

    1. No, I have not had any experience with springtails harming my seedlings. I honestly think they are one of the more beneficial pests in the worm bin. Try some DE. See if it helps and please keep me posted!

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