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My Worm Composting Story To Date: The Somewhat Abbreviated Version

It All Began With a Simple Search Using Google and YouTube

When I started vermicomposting (composting using worms) I was uneducated on the topic and honestly completely clueless as to what I was doing.  I was researching indoor/outdoor gardening how-to’s when I came across some YouTube videos on worm composting as a supplement to organic gardening methods.  I was enthralled but left with lots of questions.  How had I never heard of this?  This sounds kind of gross.  What weirdos bring pounds and pounds of worms into their house?  How could this benefit me?  I ended up watching these videos for hours (I don’t even want to admit how many) and I figured if I wanted the healthiest plants, composting seemed like a good way to go.  Why start a garden and use chemical fertilizers to make the plants grow?  That can’t be healthy and quite honestly my health wasn’t the greatest.  I wanted to go organic, no excuses.

I purchased a commercial system, the Worm Factory 360 and 1,000 red wiggler composting worms the very same day.  Next thing you know, I had worms in a bin with some peat moss and watermelon.  I was squeamish to touch them but oddly enthralled.  I was poking in multiple times a day and I was so amazed at how these guys could smash through food quicker than a football player at a buffet.  I soon came to realize that I had way more scraps than my worms could handle.  It was summer, I was eating a diet very high in fruits and vegetables and I had a backlog of food piling up in my freezer that I just couldn’t justify throwing away anymore.

I went back down the rabbit-hole of YouTube and researched making a DIY worm bin using a Rubbermaid tote.  I swear it seemed like overnight, my small Worm Factory turned into an arsenal of systems.  Saying I was hooked would be an understatement.  I was diligent in my research although I was still convinced I was going to kill these worms and it would have all been for nothing.  I lacked confidence despite how well things were going.  That fateful day of quitting never came…

How My Goals Shifted to Even Bigger Things

October of 2017 I decided to start a YouTube channel of my own.  I was so obsessed with watching and learning from these “experienced pros” and I was running out of content. So I decided to make my own.  I had a huge learning curve, not only with YouTubing, but with my hobby that was just beginning to truly take off.  I ran into many roadblocks, made lots of mistakes, discovered that more than just worms live in compost and my eyes were opening to just how much I still had to learn.

To this day (over 2 years later) I still feel amateur.  I still feel like I am clueless at times.  I experiment on anything and everything I can think of.  Worms are cool and I like to share just how amazing these little workers can be.  To date I have only bought worms on 4 occasions.  When I started, when I expanded to European Night Crawlers, when I decided to add African Night Crawlers to the mix and when I realized my “red wiggler” purchase had actually been blue worms and I just had to get the “real deal” reds.  I think my total investment to date is roughly $400 but in retrospect, it could have been 100% free and a lot of that cost was for larger commercial systems that are totally unnecessary if they aren’t within your budget.  I don’t feel bad about that investment at all however because it was the most amazing investment I ever made.  That being said, I have also been able to help four local gardeners start their own worm bins by giving away worms when I can, so being able to reduce the startup cost for others is pretty cool payback as well.

The Amazing Community of Worm Nerds and Growing the Interest to Others

Even on vacation, I am always reading and researching new and cool worm stuff.

Since starting my YouTube Channel I have found a community unlike any other.  The people who do this “weird” hobby are some of the kindest, most generous and helpful people around.  I have never felt like any question I had is dumb.  I have always gotten amazing feedback from others, I have connected with people who make commercial systems, sell worms, write blogs and/or just do this for fun.  I have been humbled by the support I am getting and the kind words coming from even the biggest gurus in the worm world.  I am often told that my opinion gives a fresh face to a hobby that is somewhat obscure and misunderstood.  How cool is that?  Those comments, those people who thank me for helping them make it all the more rewarding.

All the fluffy fun aside, I can honestly say that many people don’t get it (I am working on them though).  I oftentimes hesitate to discuss my hobby for fear of judgment.  I am happy to report that no one to date has actually been critical in any way whatsoever.  When I get the courage to bring up my hobby in casual conversation I am always shocked at how receptive people are.  People are supportive and curious and that is more than I could ever hope for.

I was at an acupuncture appointment the other night and my acupuncturist is well abreast of my worm hobby but she has taken an apprentice under her wings.  My acupuncturist casually asked “how are the worms” and thus a long conversation ensued as her apprentice had never heard of vermicomposting.  I can proudly admit that I had diarrhea of the mouth.  I was spewing my excitement and knowledge about worms and super happy to answer all of her questions.  I felt a little silly because it sounded like I was talking about my pets (well they sort of are…) but the biggest reward for me was when we were leaving the office (I was the last appointment of the day) her apprentice said she totally wants to research worm composting further.  She was amazed when I said that I have fed as much as 16 pounds of food waste in a single week.

My biggest eaters: the African Night Crawlers.

I had a “worm nerd” moment, no shame.  This is the reason I keep doing what I do.  Even people who have not jumped on the bandwagon for whatever reason often contribute their waste to me or learn something from our interactions.  I have coworkers, family, friends and the local Starbucks to thank for that.  Even if I can’t sell the idea of worm bins to everyone I meet, for each person that I impact I have a strong sense of accomplishment.  My garden thanks me (although I still fail more than succeed with gardening) by giving me healthy plants.  I have pride in reducing my carbon footprint and turning “trash into treasure” and I have built some amazing friendships with people across the world (quite literally) that I would have never met if it hadn’t been for worms.

Start a worm bin and see how much your life changes, perspectives change and your appreciation for our planet flourishes.

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Getting Kids Interested in Worms and Recycling: Make it Fun

I was recently thinking about how much enjoyable it is to see pictures of fellow vermicomposters getting their kids involved with worms.  It warms my heart and gives me hope for the future of our planet.  Believe me, I never envisioned myself to be an avid environmentalist.  I am still far from where I would like to be in my journey to the most sustainable and environmentally-friendly life possible, however my views are evolving and I have a much greater appreciation for how much I CAN have an impact by keeping my waste out of landfills.  That’s information worth sharing.

I see now, that every little bit helps.  It is not about cutting everything out at once, but the little steps.  I feel that I was behind the curve.  I was honestly in a world where I was ignorant to the waste problem in our country.  I was oblivious to the repercussions of big industry, poor water quality, and GMO’s being used in our agriculture.  I was brought up in suburban America, sheltered from the reality of the growing health concerns in our country.  All going back to the health of our planet.

I was raised in a house where we always recycled, but I never really understood why it was so important.  I had a superficial understanding but not nearly to the extent I do now.  I hope that children growing up today will be raised in homes, schools and neighborhoods that make learning about recycling, gardening and treating the planet right a top priority.

Testing the Waters

Lets not lie, I was a bit childish myself when I started worm composting.  I was naïve.   I was scared to no end to handle my worms even with gloves and the bugs flipped me out.  Boys tend to be more “rough-and-tumble” and typically are more open to playing in dirt, running in creeks and playing with bugs.  Girls on the otherhand– if they are anything like me, are little divas (I say that with love).  My entire life I have been afraid of getting dirty, hate bugs and am not a huge outdoorsy person.  I have grown to appreciate it at lot more as I grow up, but some habits never die.

If your kids are into the outdoors, into bugs and open to trying new things this may not be a struggle for you.  I can only imagine what my reaction would have been to playing with worms when I was six or seven.  I cried when I saw my friend eat an ant on a dare when we were ten but that’s a story for another day.  I was spoiled as hell.  I was an expert at dodging gardening work, raking leaves or doing anything that involved dirt and bugs (until the pile of leaves was high and I decided to go destroy the work my parents had put into raking them).

My Dream

I hope that we can get kids back to the outdoors, back to nature and playing outside.  I want them to enjoy the sun, the wildlife and beauty that is all around us.  I grew up playing lighting tag with the neighborhood kids.  I would catch crayfish and salamanders in the creek.  It took me awhile to get there, but I loved it so much: catching all the frogs and toads I could.  We would put them in a little “home” which was a glorified bucket and release them all at the end of the day.

I don’t have any kids yet, but I am surrounded by enough in my family and neighborhood that I think I have a decent grasp on how their little brains work.  Kids soak up knowledge so much better than we do as adults and the habits we begin teaching early, the more they will come to appreciate it and want to continue it in their own lives.

I want as many kids as possible to get to experience worm farming and composting in their homes, schools and neighborhoods.  I hope one day this is a mainstream process and less of a “hobby”.  It is not only a benefit to the earth, but to reducing our carbon footprint and being able to grow healthier plants in our own backyards. It can be something “fun” that is responsible and environmentally conscious at the same time.

Getting Started

Maybe you have worms already or maybe you are on the fence about beginning worm composting.  It can seem overwhelming at first and obviously there is a learning curve, but why not include your kids in the journey?

When I first started my totes, I was psyched about it.  My neighbors Grandson was outside swimming in the pool and came over when I took the worms outside to harvest some castings.  I asked him if he wanted to help.  He was hesitant at first, but I dumped the contents of the bin onto a tarp and starting using the sunlight to harvest.  He sat and watched for a good 15 minutes before saying “can I try?”.  We ended up sitting together outside on the lawn for over an hour “playing” in my compost.

A few weeks after this, I was putting in my first “real” vegetable garden.  I found that my neighbors Grandson was outside again and having dinner with his family.  When they were finished, he ran over and asked to help me plant.  We put in all the plants and in a few months time, he was coming over to grab tomatoes and peppers to eat with his parents.  I felt accomplished, I was able to teach him just a little bit about what I was doing and how you can reap the benefits of harvesting great food with the help of worm castings.

Long story, but one that really touched my heart.  I am sure his grasp of the situation was far less than I told him, but he was into it and continues to come over and ask me about my worms and grab food from the garden.

My Experiment

I think that the Rubbermaids are a great way to raise worms, but clear containers may be a much more efficient way to demonstrate what worms can do with kids.  Even if they don’t want to touch the worms, they can help add food and peek through the clear tote or whatever clear system you choose to use.  Think of it as an ant farm.  Ant farms would be pointless if we didn’t have the clear container to view their tunnels and activity taking the food around the little maze they build.

The Glass Vase Experiment: Watch Here

I just started an experiment using a glass vase.  I layered it with food and bedding.  I covered it with a light towel so when I am not working with it, the worms aren’t annoyed by the light.  When I peek in, I can see the worm activity all through the vase and see the decomposing matter as it turns dark and castings are forming.  A variation of anything similar to this would be an awesome way to show kids how composting works.

As they begin to learn and appreciate what you are doing, I have little doubt that they will be eagerly waiting until the next time they get to feed the worms.  I think that projects like this will help children develop a better understanding of recycling and how they can help make something that can be used in their own yards!  Plant some veggies, a butterfly bush, or some herbs.  Let your children help you and learn the benefits of vermicompost first-hand.

The Takeaway

Let us be honest, kids these days are more interested in their phones, tablets and video games than they are about going outside to play.  That’s fine, but lets get them involved in other activities as well.  The electronic world we live in has really pulled many of us in and we have lost that connection with the environment.

Try something out with your kids, grandchildren, at a school, or even with nieces, nephews or neighbors.  No step is to small.  If we pique just a little interest in worms, we may be surprised at what is possible and how we can shape some new understanding, new appreciation and new participation in helping rid our own environment of requiring ” quick fix” chemical-filled fertilizers.  We can eliminate waste from the already overflowing landfills.  We can get back to a more organic way of growing and a better way to handle our waste.  We can get children out fishing and enjoying what mother nature has to offer.

Tell me how you include kids in your own composting.  What gets them most excited?  I would love to hear your stories.  Follow my experiment on the YouTube channel and lets see if we can spread the fun to as many people as possible.

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8 Items I Can’t Live Without in my Vermicomposting Venture

The thought process behind vermicomposting is such that we want to minimize waste and eliminate chemicals from our own personal gardens.  That being said, there are very few items that I regularly purchase for my worms and composting.  However, there are several items that I consider pretty darn important in helping me to work this hobby with ease.  Do I think you need to purchase all of these yourself?  No, not at all necessary but I wanted to share some of my “must-haves” with you so that you can consider what items are most useful to you.  Maybe you have some items you would like to add to the list as well.

Most of these items are a one-time purchase and thus a small upfront cost when getting started.  Invest a tiny bit early on and it is doubtful that you will have to put much if any other money towards the hobby again.  These items make life much easier for me, so I decided to share them with you.  Without further rambling, here are my top 10 “must-have” worm composting items… in no particular order.

A Sifter Basket

This is what I use. The handles are super convenient.

 There are several sifting devices you can make for yourself or purchase cheaply at a home improvement store.  I have experimented with several different sifters over the last two years and I think that this storage basket is perfect.  I got the idea from a fellow vermicomposter, Lilia Kogan who has her own YouTube Channel as well.  You can watch her sifting process HERE.

The basket method works so well because it is easy to grip, sifts from all angles and easily catches cocoons so that you can ensure the growth of your worm population.  Even with relatively moist castings, I think this is by far the easiest and most inexpensive method out there.  Similar baskets can be found in home good and storage stores that most of us have relatively local.  Oh, and did I mention they are a breeze to clean out?  Take it in the backyard and spray with a hose (over the garden to leech that good stuff right into the soil) and BOOM done.  Back to sitting in my composting room with some supplies stored in it.


If you rinse these gloves off, you can get many uses out of a single pair.

For me, gloves are not only about comfort and avoiding the slimy/squirmy madness, but also a health measure that cannot be ignored.  The nurse in me is all about maintaining safe practices when it comes to cooking and handling items that can potentially be hazardous.

Are worm bins hazardous?  Not exactly.  In the decomposition process however, bacteria can be abundant until the worms consume those bacteria making them safe for our gardens.  Why risk making yourself ill or getting icky, sticky castings under your fingernails?  Disposable gloves may not be the best option sustainably speaking, but I reuse mine many times before recycling them.  I find that these gloves are easier to grip with as compared to gardening gloves, but either one would work just fine.

Mortar Trays

Mortar trays serve many purposes and can be multi-functional in composting and other home projects.

I use mortar trays in multiple capacities in my indoor composting.  For one, they are excellent catch tray for underneath my CFT (continuous flow through) and ensure that any liquid runoff does not get on my floor and warp the hardwood.  Also, they are very helpful in harvesting.  Whether you sift, use a light method, or even horizontally migrate your bins, the trays are excellent for sorting, holding worms in, or even migrating them.

The shallow but large trays have multiple uses and have become a staple for me in my sorting efforts.  I am currently using one as a breeder bin as well.  The large surface area allows my worms lots of space to grow and reproduce for the fisherman in the family.  Hey, I might not love fishing as much as he does, but I definitely win some brownie points for getting bait ready so that we can eat fish year-round.

Rubbermaid Bins

Remember to always buy dark colored totes. The transparent totes allow in too much light and your worms won’t flourish as well.

Most of us running homemade bins use storage boxes/bins of some sort.  I have found that 10 gallon totes are the best.  Larger totes work great as well, but for me, space is limited and I move my bins around regularly.  I consider myself a pretty strong person, but these bins can get much heavier than you would imagine.

I drill holes in the sides and the lids of my Rubbermaids but the beauty is that if I am doing things right and maintain an appropriate moisture content, the holes in the lids aren’t completely necessary and I can stack the bins getting many more systems in a small space.  Using only 1/2 of a spare bedroom can be challenging, especially with 12+ systems running.  Being able to stack bins has made growth possible for me despite the tiny area.

Spray Bottles

Avoid using old spray bottles that had any sort of chemicals in them.

I use spray bottles to mist the surfaces of my bins.  In a few of my systems, I regularly leave the lids off for convenience and aeration.  This is all good and fine, but keeping the surface of these bins from drying out can be a little tricky.  Unless you have time to turn the bedding frequently or keep a cover of some sort over the top of the bin remaining moist, the top will dry out and feel like hard cement pieces.

For this reason, I keep a spray bottle next to my bins.  I fill it with tap water and allow the chlorine to evaporate off (jury is out on whether I think the chlorine actually will do any harm, but better safe than sorry) before using it to mist the surfaces of the bins that I keep uncovered.  This makes the process of wetting these bins down on a regular basis virtually fool-proof.  When using other methods to water down a bin, it can be easy to overdo it.  This is a simple 10-20 sprays across the surface of the bin and I can go about my business.

A Good Quality Micro-Shredder

This is the exact shredder I use. It isn’t the cheapest nor the most expensive but it does the trick!

This is an item that I would definitely say is entirely optional and will not by any means make or break your experience.  That being said, most of us keep shredders in the house regardless.  What else are we going to do with old bank statements and credit cards?  I sure as hell am not putting them into the regular recycling bin.  Too much identity fraud these days.

When I was just getting started worm composting (maybe 6 months in) my home shredder died on me.  I took advantage of the situation and invested in a 12 sheet micro-shredder.  This shredder can handle even double-thick (although I wouldn’t test this theory TOO much) cardboard with ease.  I easily use it three times a week or more to shred Amazon boxes.  The fine shredded goodness that comes out of this thing makes for super fluffy castings that retain moisture well and break down faster than hand-shredded pieces.

Diatomacious Earth

This bag will last you years! I still have mine from two years ago. Still more than halfway full.

This stuff is amazing.  Food Grade DE can be used in multiple organic uses.  It is even contained in certain toothpastes.  It has some trace minerals that are also great for the garden.  I like it for bug control.  If I haven’t mentioned it enough, I get completely wigged out by pests in the worm bin.  I sprinkle DE around the feet of my Worm Factory, by my backdoor where ants seem to love to come into the house and I even use it in my bins.

The beauty of DE is that it does not harm the worms in any way whatsoever.  It is said that it loses its ability to control pests when wet, but if sprinkled on the surface of your bin or on top of a piece of cardboard or newspaper on the top of the bin, it is very helpful in controlling the numbers of springtails, beetles, mites, and other creepy crawlers.

Rock Dust

A small sprinkling with each feeding, rock dust/azomite will last you forever!

 I use rock dust or garden lime in my bins every single week.  Your bin can run completely fine without rock dust, but it does serve several purposes in the bin.  As the name suggests, rock dust is simply pulverized rock and thus carries many minerals.  We can never have enough minerals in our bins or garden, right?  We want the healthiest, biggest and most nutrient-dense veggies on the block right?

In addition to the mineral content that the rock dust supplies, it is also a form of grit for the worm gizzard to help pulverize the bacteria and food that they ingest.  The rock dust helps neutralize the pH and is in my mind an all-around benefit to the bin.

The Takeaway

If you can get away with less, that is the ideal situation, right?  I continue to play guinea pig as I enjoy being able to bring you guys the products that I feel are worthwhile but I started out with nothing but a Worm Factory 360 and some worms.  The rest of the items were accumulated over time.  I did just fine without them when starting out and that should be noted.  As my worm population and my bin numbers continue to grow, some products that simplify the process and save me time are well worth the small investment for me because they save me lots of time!

I am a night-shift nurse and honestly I feel guilty saying that three days a week is full-time for me and yet I still feel short of time frequently.  I can only imagine how many of you nine to fivers with families get it all done!  Let me know what your essentials are.  Do you think my list was missing anything that is a glaring DUH to you?  I would love to hear your feedback.  Keep at the worm composting and see what a huge difference it will play in your life.  Happy Worming!

** This post contains ‘affiliate links’ to products that I use and love.  If you click on the link and purchase an item, I will receive an affiliate commission from your purchase.  Please do research on your own before purchasing anything online. **

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I Have to Crap and So Do My Worms: How to Optimize Your Feeding Habits for the Best Vermi-“Poop”

I am willing to bet that anyone who has a worm bin has had (at least) one time where they said, crap that was a bad choice.  Am I wrong here?  I have made many of these mistakes if I am being completely honest with you.  My whole theory and methodology is to experiment and learn through personal experience and this has had me on the wrong side of fate on more than one occasion.  Live and learn, right?

I have overfed my bins, put frozen food into the bin without thawing (yikes) it first and I have added food that was too water rich without adding adequate bedding. That is just naming a few!  These mistakes created quite a few “nightmarish” situations for me.  Think mass exodus, smelly bin, bugs, and flooding out of the bottom of my Worm Factory (stackable tray system).  It is okay though!  With a few principle practices you can nearly eliminate the guess-work on how to feed the worm bin.

Why is This Important?

When feeding your worms, you want to ensure that they will be healthy and able to compost in the most efficient manner.  This will give you the best worm crap that the world has ever seen! That “black gold” is what we all look forward to when we start composting.  That flaky, dark, and nutrient-dense goodness for our gardens.  To get the perfect compost, you need to know how to feed and manage the bin so that you don’t end up with a stinky bin, wet bin or even a sour bin which kill off your worms.  Happy worms make the best vermicompost, mine told me so.  So, let’s break the process down into some key practices that will make life easy and hassle-free!

The 5 Most Important Feeding “Rules” to Get the Most out of Your Worms

I am sure that there are more than 5 methods and practices to make feeding the worm bin as fool-proof as possible but I chose the practices that I personally have tried, experimented with and implemented in my own indoor systems.  I hope that through sharing these with you, perhaps you will see an improvement in your own composting experience and maybe even learn something new along the way.

1. Try the Pocket Feeding Method

Think of your bin as a grid.

I learned early on from a very successful and well-known vermicomposting “guru” (Brian Donaldson) that feeding your bin in sections can be the best way to ensure that you do not overfeed, it allows for areas of the bin to be an “escape route” or “safe haven” if the bin gets too hot, sour or unfavorable to the worms.  This is my interpretation of the process, but be sure to check out Brian’s (The Worm Man) YouTube channel HERE for his explanation of how it all works.

The concept of pocket feeding makes life super easy.  It takes the guesswork out of how much or how often to feed your bins.  The idea is to break your bin or system into sections.  I usually break mine into four, but for larger systems, six might be even better.  Do what works for you!

Take for example a square bin.  Split that into four sections.  You feed one section at a time in a clockwise fashion with a relatively small amount of food (always better to err on the side of underfeeding).  You start in one corner and rotate each week.  The idea is that when you get back to square one (see what I did there?)  no existing food from that first feeding will be left, therefore you know it is okay to start the cycle over again.

By splitting your bins into pockets or sections, you always rotate feeding areas and can easily learn how long it takes your worms to consume a given amount of food.  This allows you to adjust feedings appropriately without the risk of putting too much food waste into the bin at any given time.  I don’t follow this method precisely to Brian’s description but I do feed in sections and monitor my feedings accordingly.

2.  Increase the Surface Area of Your Food Waste Before Feeding the Bin

This sounds fancy and confusing at first, but I assure you it is quite easy.  Microbes begin the breakdown process of food waste well before the worms move in and the more surface area available to them, the faster they can get to work.  Imagine placing a whole banana in the bin.  This will take longer to break down because the microbes have to break through the skin and get to the flesh beneath before the worms can do much of anything with the banana itself.

Imagine the same banana cut into small pieces.  By cutting the banana up, not only is the sweet and fleshy goodness available to the microbes right away, but the amount of surface area they can get to work on is vastly greater because the banana has been processed into smaller pieces.

I have been running experiments on and off testing blended food versus whole food in a worm bin.  Let me tell you, it is immediately apparent that the blended food gets eaten much more quickly.  You can check out my most recent experiment on this topic on my “to blend or not to blend” experiment.  Video one of this playlist can be watched HERE.

3. Use “Grit” to Help the Worms Process Food More Efficiently

Okay, so this isn’t tried and true as far as I know however it is important to have grit regardless.  Worms have a gizzard, much like a chicken.  Even humans need “grit” for proper digestion.  For us humans, grit=fiber.  For worms, grit can be sand, crushed eggshell, or even oyster shell.  This grit allows the food/microbes consumed by the worms to pass through their digestive tract.  The grit helps grind up the food in a sense.  This helps to avoid a potential disaster known as protein poisoning or string-of-pearls disease that kills the worms.

Protein poisoning is usually the result of overfeeding but it is suggested that grit plays a role as well.  If the worms are happily eating away but have no grit to break down the food they struggle to digest it.  This results in the fermentation process in the worms gut which creates a massive amount of gas that the worms can’t excrete.  The result is a worm that looks like it has been cinched off in pieces, much like a pearl necklace.  This can kill a whole bin very quickly, so adding grit makes sense.  Due to this malady, you will hear most vermicomposters are adamant that you should never overfeed (err on the side of caution) and add plenty of bedding and some grit with every feeding.

4. Freeze Your Scraps Before Adding Them to the Bin

This is a practice that isn’t entirely necessary, but serves a few purposes and I have found it to be quite helpful in my own venture.  As I collect my scraps, I put them in large freezer bags and when they are full, I let them freeze for a good day or two before adding them to the bin.

Why the added step?  Let me explain.  When you freeze vegetable and fruit scraps, it breaks open the cell wall of the food and once thawed, it is much more readily available to the worms and microbes within your bin.  Root vegetables are a prime example.  Try putting a potato in the worm bin and see how long it takes to begin decomposing.  It is more likely to sprout and try to grow than it is to decompose.  When you freeze it first, it softens and allows the microbes to get at it more quickly and it won’t go sprouting on you.

I have found that cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower are also nearly impossible to break down (it takes AGES) unless frozen first.  Not in a rush?  No problem, throw it in without freezing.  If you want to speed up the process, pop your scraps in the freezer first so that you don’t go grey waiting for the food to break down.

Another benefit of freezing is the reduction of bugs in the worm bin.  I recently added a pineapple slice to an experimental bin I am running on “forbidden worm bin foods”.  I didn’t freeze the pineapple first because I wanted to get the full effect it would have on my bin.  Checking in on it over the last two weeks I have tons of beetles (itty-bitty ones, but icky nonetheless) and fruit fly larvae.

No one wants to deal with flies or bugs, at least not in large numbers.  Once fruit flies move in, it can be a real pain in the backside to remedy.  Freezing food helps to kill off any fruit fly eggs that may be in the skin of our food waste, thus limiting the chance of an annoying outbreak!

5. Mix Up Your Food Options For the Worms to “Sweeten the Deal”

Okay, so this isn’t 100% necessary either, but it certainly helps.  If you want truly super-charged poop, don’t you want it to be as balanced as possible with multiple available nutrients for the garden?  I find that my worms prefer sweet and water-rich foods more than anything else.  I like to add fruit with almost every feeding because the microbes (and thus the worms as well) go nuts for sweet stuff.  Favorites of my worms include watermelon, cucumber, berries, bananas and oranges… yes, I recognize that citrus is considered a bad food that could acidify your bin or kill the worms, but I have found that in moderation there is absolutely nothing wrong with adding it to the worm diet and they actually enjoy it a lot.  More to come on the “Forbidden Foods” experiment.  Once it is complete, I will share the verdict on some highly controversial worm bin foods.

When feeding my worm bins I always take a look at what foods I have available and try to add a little something to satisfy their sweet-tooth and entice the ecosystem to get to work very quickly.  Keep in mind, if you don’t have anything sweet, that is totally fine however with a well-balanced diet, the castings will be richer and more potent in a wide array of nutrients.

The Takeaway

Implementing all of these methods may not be realistic for everyone.  You may be short on freezer space, you may be limited to certain foods based on your own diet or you may find that chopping the food up fine to create a larger surface area is a bit too time-consuming.  I get it!  This is simply a list of methods that I have tried that have helped my systems work quicker, better and with less problems than some other “standard” feeding methods.

I cannot emphasize enough the importance of not overfeeding.  Keep in mind if you try the chopping/blended method that it is easier to overfeed, so err on the side of caution and add lots of bedding and plenty of grit with every feeding for a good carbon/nitrogen (bedding to food) ratio.  If you try just one or two of these methods, I would love to hear what your experience is.  Happy composting and be sure to optimize that poop!  You will have your worms flying through the waste in no time.

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The Truth About Bugs in the Worm Bin: How to Tackle Your Problems and Avoid Wanting to Quit

Dreaming of rainbows and butterfies

Okay lets face it, anyone who follows my YouTube channel The Crazy Worm Lady, knows how freaked out I get over bugs.  I still laugh at myself knowing how naive I was when started out.  I pictured a gorgeous bin with nothing but tons of worms and castings.  I swore up and down, “over my dead body will I allow bugs to invade my bins”!  The judgmental side of me laughed at other YouTubers who shared their bug plights.  The uneducated me thought that they MUST be doing something wrong.

However, it was me who was wrong.

In a well-established bin, bugs should not only be expected, but respected as well.  You heard me right, I respect the bugs in my bins.  The complexity of soil structure and the ecosystem that exists with decomposing matter was a foreign concept to me.

When I started seeing mites, grain beetles and drain flies in my bin those first few months, I was distraught.  I remember in particular pulling a squash from my garden that a groundhog got to.  I froze it and laid out two slices in my Worm Factory 360.  I opened the lid a few days later and it was CRAWLING with grain beetles and red mites.

I frantically scoured the internet and had dreams about bugs in my bed.  I was literally jumping to an unrealistic scenario.  I waited with bated breath for replies to my requests for help on a worm forum.  I was days away from dumping it all in the yard and calling it quits.

Shortly after this, I started seeing drain/sewer flies.  They were hanging out on the walls next to my bin.  It was an all out war that I waged against my bin.  I stopped feeding, I draped mosquito netting over my bin and worried incessantly about whether or not I could do this.

Could I come to accept this as reality?  Could I continue to remain calm and not think about the bugs 24/7?  Was I doing something wrong?  Was I too hasty in starting with the hobby?

Well the long and short of it is… I was doing just fine.  There’s a learning curve with vermicomposting just like with anything else.  I have come to appreciate my problems as they have all taught me how to manage my bins more effectively and efficiently.  Am I perfect?  Heck no, but I continue to learn and grow every day.

What Bugs Can You Expect in Your Bins?

I have seen quite a number of bugs over the course of my worm composting experience.  I have seen fruit flies, drain flies, mites, springtails, grain beetles, pot worms, one lone earwig and one large beetle (stubborn bugger won’t leave) who should be named “The Joker” as he freaks me out and makes an appearance on the regular.  He likes to poke fun at my bug-phobic ego.

In outdoor bins there are other bugs that could make an appearance such as ants, slugs, snails, cockroaches, black soldier fly larvae, millipedes, centipedes and isopods of various sorts.

Black soldier fly larvae. Photo courtesy of Michele Palmer.

Which Bugs Are Good?

The short answer is that most of these bugs are good!  Most bugs are active decomposers and pose no threat to the worms.  An exception may be slugs, snails, and high numbers of black soldier fly larvae.  These are only typically seen in outdoor compost ventures.  I say this without too much concern because unless they are in high numbers you probably have little to worry about.

I don’t have any experience in outdoor bins just yet (more to come on that as I start an outdoor bin this summer) so I will not claim to be an expert on the topic of outdoor worm bin pests, but read on for information regarding how to combat and/or eliminate complete and total outbreaks of these worm bin pests indoors.  A balance is good, an overabundance is probably indicating you need to address a problem with your worm bin situation.

What Methods Can I Use to Help Minimize Bugs in the Worm Bin?

Usually an outbreak of any one particular bug is indicating either a problem or a lack of proper worm bin care.  I can attest to the fact that 99% of my worm bin pests have most likely been because of poor care and/or laziness on my part.

1. Bedding and Covering Scraps Adequately:

Okay, if you are anything like me, you like to poke around in the bins frequently and can get lazy on occasion.  Usually most of your pest problems can be greatly reduced by using bedding effectively and burying your scraps.  This is where I am guilty of poor care.  I admit it, I don’t always feel like soaking bedding, laying it on thick and burying or re-burying my scraps after poking around.

I find that fruit flies are the biggest problem with this worm-care mistake.  Like it or not, many of our fruits and veggies have fruit fly eggs laid on or in their skins when we purchase them.  To eliminate an outbreak, simple steps such as adding 1-2 inches of thick (and dry) bedding on top of your bin will make it almost impossible for the hatchlings to make it out or the adults to get back in and lay more eggs.  I would always suggest a thick (but breathable of course) cover over your scraps/bins.  I prefer cardboard or newspaper.  Coconut coir, peat moss and many other bedding sources will probably work just as well though.

2. Managing Your pH:

Yep, sounds a bit complicated, but the worms and the bin conditions usually give you some tell-tale ques regarding whether or not your bin is getting acidic.  You want a relatively neutral pH in your bin.

That being said, there is NO NEED to purchase a pH meter.  In order to get an accurate pH, you need to spend $100 or more on a meter and that just isn’t a realistic or smart purchase for most of us.

I have researched and done my own mini-experiments with pH in my bins.  I find that many worm bin bugs prefer a slightly more acidic environment.  Pot worms, mites and springtails to name a few.

Red mites. Photo courtesy of Pam Beers.

What do you do if you are seeing these bugs in abundance?  Add a “buffer”.  A buffer is simply an additive to your bin which helps raise the pH to a more suitable environment to the worms and less suitable to the pests.

Some really good buffers include crushed egg shells, ground oyster shells such as this one and dolomite lime (organic garden lime) try this one.  The calcium content in these additives is not only good for our soil and castings, but great at raising the pH just enough to regulate the balance in the system.  I have used all of these with success in my bins.  Remember though that it is a waiting game, and one that demands the practice of patience to allow things to normalize again.

3. Use Organic Pest Control Products:

I never endorse buying things for your worm bin unless completely necessary.  I live by the adage that buying products for the worm bin somewhat goes against the idea of a cheap/free hobby that focuses on sustainability and doing good for the environment.  That being said, I like to try things out so that I not only learn myself, but gain knowledge that I can share with you as well.  Let me be your guinea pig!

The first product that I tried and continue to use is Diametacious Earth (DE).  DE is not only organic, but also has calcium and other trace minerals that benefits the soil and pH.  DE works best when dry.  This can be a challenge in a moist worm bin, but I have found that laying a dry piece of cardboard on top of my bin, sprinkling it with DE and laying some sort of bait (whatever food you are seeing the bugs go after the most) on top… it can be rather effective.  DE works by drying out the exoskeleton of many “crawly” worm bin pests.  When the exoskeleton is dried/rubbed off, the bugs dry out and die.  DE works great on mites, springtails and ants. This is what I use

Neem cake and Neem Oil are something else I have utilized with success.  Neem is an organic component that comes from the Neem evergreen tree.  It is touted for many positive attributes not only in the garden as a pest repellent but also in health for its antifungal and antimicrobial properties.  It is harvested primarily in India.  Neem works as a fertilizer to the soil (containing NPK: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) and also inhibits the proliferation of negative microbes in the soil.

I have found in practice that neem reduces the number of mites in my bins.  If the neem oil I use this, is rubbed around the rims of my bins I see 100% elimination of any noticeable mites running around the lids/rims of my bins.  For me, reducing that “ick factor” is well worth the investment and knowing that the neem cake (feed that can be fed to the worms in the bin) is also good for my soil is a win:win I have tried this.

4. Stop Feeding:

Some worm bin pests boom when we overfeed.  Acidity and pH imbalances go hand in hand with overfeeding.  Not a good combination of factors.

Several times when I have had outbreaks of mites I have stopped feeding my bins for several weeks while adding some dry bedding.  I allow the bin to self-regulate.  The worms won’t starve.  I promise.  Remember from my previous posts, bedding also acts as food for the worms, so waiting two, three, even four weeks won’t kill of a bin of worms… in fact it is likely to help them!

It seems to go against what we think we need to do.  Just like with our dogs and cats.  We act impulsively, knowing that we need to feed our pets.  The difference with worms is that they can re-process the castings they have created and their bedding is an additional food source making it damn near impossible to starve them.  So, relax, take a deep breath and stop adding food.  It’s almost guaranteed to lower the population of pests.  Fret not.  I have been there and my worms are still thriving despite my “neglect”.

5.  Make a Physical Barrier:

My final suggestion is to create “physical barriers”.  In certain circumstances, placing a barrier over or surrounding your bin will make a world of difference.  I find that physical barriers are super-effective at reducing or eliminating fruit flies.  If you take away their access to your bins, you eliminate them.  The one specific way I did this was with mosquito netting.  Others have used window-screens, weed cloth, and plastic bags (I don’t recommend this due to the possibility of limiting oxygenation in the bin).

This works by restricting the access into your bins.  We all know that aeration is critical to the aerobic process of worm composting.  Worms need air to live.

When I had an outbreak of fungas gnats/drain flies, I draped my Worm Factory in mosquito netting like this and rubber-banded it around the legs.  This made it nearly impossible for the fruit flies and gnats to enter the bin and lay more eggs thus perpetuating the crappy cycle of fighting them in my living room.  I consider this a last-ditch effort because it is annoying to deal with and seems a bit extreme to me after learning of all the alternatives.

That being said, if you are ready to throw-in the towel, buy a mosquito net or some window screen.  Cover any entrances to your bin and see what happens.  I bet you will see a reduction and maybe even an elimination of the problem.

The Takeaway:

Don’t be discouraged!  Don’t become overwhelmed and overthink whether or not this hobby is for you!  With some simple steps, you can reduce the number of worm-bin pests in your home.  I promise you won’t regret sticking it out.  It is a process, it takes time to learn exactly how to do everything, but that isn’t a reason to quit!  Think of why you started.  Sustainability?  Organic fertilizer?  A way to process an excess of food?

I am the first to admit that to this day I continue to struggle to get over the mental gross-out I get thinking of bugs in my worm bins.  I will say however that I have yet to see a single pest outside of the bin.  Maybe a fruit fly, but I don’t have mites or springtails in my bed.  I don’t have pot worms in the houseplants or kitchen.  No mites running about my counter-tops.  I have come to realize that these pests are not interested in leaving the haven they have in the moist, decaying matter within the worm bin.  My house is free of pests short of the occasional ant… don’t overthink it.

If you are seriously bugged out (see what I did there?)… I have fallen in love with the Urban Worm Bag (still new to me) I am looking forward to my first harvest soon!  This system is a continuous flow through bag that is breathable but zips completely shut!  This minimizes the bug problem substantially.  Buy One Here.

Try some of my suggestions.  Let me know how it goes and reap the benefits of the incredible “black gold” your worms make for you.  If we want to heal our planet, a springtail or mite isn’t worth a single moment of concern.


** Disclosure: The links within this post are ‘affiliate links’.  This simply means if you click the link and purchase one of these items, I will receive an affiliate commission.  **

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Another Way To Look at Trash and Waste: Vermicompost That Crap!

Have you ever looked at the United States food waste statistics?  It’s sickening.

When reviewing the *USDA statistics, you will find that 30-40% of our food supply ends up as garbage.  Without widespread recycling or composting programs, a lot of that food ends up in our landfills.  This is a problem that all of us should care about.  I am happy that more and more people are becoming aware of this problem and playing their part in trying to combat it.

The average American wastes over 600 pounds of food per year.  Before you say, “no, not me!” consider all the food you leave on your plate at a restaurant, the amount of chips and salsa, bread, or crackers you leave on the table at restaurant establishments.  Think about that produce that rots on your counter, the leftover food that doesn’t get eaten or that whole bag of spinach that somehow gets lost behind the condiments in the refrigerator.

I have found since starting vermcomposting that my home itself (a household of 2) easily generates 2 pounds of scraps a week and that isn’t even including waste we generate when we eat out OR the the non-compostable items (at least indoors) such as meat or dairy.

It has been eye-opening.  I realize how JUST a small home composting system can in fact make a huge impact.  I am collecting food waste from three friends in addition to my own waste at a rate of 4-8 pounds per week.  That’s up to 416 pounds of waste a year that I am personally keeping out of the landfill.

Did you know that the United States ships a lot of our garbage waste overseas because of the limited space our landfills have left?  This is completely unacceptable.

Let’s look at this from another perspective.  Have you ever been to a Farmer’s Market?  A ballgame?  A buffet?  What do you think happens to all that uneaten or unpurchased food?  It spoils and in many cases is thrown away.

Walking out of a baseball game earlier this week, my friends and I were commenting on how all of the homeless people begging for money outside of the ballpark could benefit greatly from some of the food that will be thrown out after the game.  We can naively think that all of these establishments donate to food kitchens, but lets be real… most of that food will hit a dumpster tonight and those homeless individuals will go to their park benches or tents hungry.

Another conversation I had not that long ago was with a friend who works in a grocery store.  I inquired as to whether or not I could take some produce that was past its prime off of their hands to compost.  Do you know what he said?  Policy doesn’t permit it.  Liability issues demand that they throw it all away.

How can we fix any of this?  I wish I had the power to sway company policies all on my own but I know that isn’t realistic.  So, to all the companies who donate to food kitchens or have waste programs: I commend you!  To those that don’t… I encourage as many people as possible to write to their local grocers and encourage them to reconsider their policies.

After learning all of these things, I have found a side of myself that I didn’t realize I had.  I never considered myself a tree-hugger or environmentalist but I assure you I am reformed in my mindset and priorities.  I no longer have any guilt about produce that turns… I know that it is going to good use.  I now have organically grown vegetables indoors AND out.  I am helping to reduce my carbon footprint.  I am helping HEAL the environment by rebuilding the soil structure on my modest property.  Composting is the coolest thing that I have ever started.  Hands down.

Did you know that a portion of carbon emissions are actually produced by the process of treating our garbage waste?  How?  Well, it takes trucks to haul, it takes water to process, it takes space to store.  Methane gasses are released in this process further harming the environment.

Consider this… if each one of us could get five people to start composting, even a pound a week, that would be 1,825 pounds of waste WE personally helped to save from hitting the garbage.  If I can convince five of you to do that, over 9,000 pounds of waste will stay out of the landfill.  Consider that when you think that small composting projects don’t make an impact.

What’s the benefit of vermicomposting in this equation?

Vermicomposting speeds up the composting process exponentially.  Let’s be honest, how many of us keep up with the lawn-waste compost pile?  To work ideally, you have to keep a very calculated carbon: nitrogen (bedding to food) ratio in order for it to work the way we hope.  The beauty of indoor (or outdoor) vermicomposting is that the worms help the process work much faster.  I create several gallons of compost each month with ease and NO downtime during the winter months.  No measuring my carbon:nitrogen ratios, just listening to my worms based on the health of their bins and it’s pretty darn easy at that.

If I fed my 10 gallon bins aggressively, I could easily handle a pound of food per week.  Due to the multitude of systems that I run, I tend to run fairly conservative on how much I feed, but I know my systems could handle more in most cases.

I challenge each of you to run even a single 10 gallon tote and see how much waste you can keep from hitting the garbage.  I bet once you get started you will be just as addicted as me and be searching out additional food sources to compost before long!  Let’s be a part of the solution.  Let’s lead the revolution… let’s be the change that our environment needs so much!  I hope that my children one day will be able to enjoy a healthy planet, so I will continue to do my part as long as possible!

Some small changes make a huge impact:

1. Save all of your scraps and compost them in whatever method you have available.  Worm composting (vermicomposting), the outdoor compost pile, bokashi, etc.

2. Drink tap water- use a Brita filter or something similar, but avoid buying plastic water bottles on a regular basis.

3. Recycle whatever items possible.  Be it newspapers, plastic bottles, metal cans, or food… do what you can!  No amount is too small.  Reuse glass containers.  Be creative!

4. Buy worms!  My worms are the greatest investment I ever made.  Better yet, find someone local who will sell you sone worms or even give you some to start out… this eliminates the need to utilize the mail system.

5. Bypass the straws, plastic silverware, paper plates and styrofoam. Try buying bamboo silverware to take to work instead of the plastics, use reusable metal or glass tumblers.  Use your own plates, glasses and reusable straws.

6. Grow your own food.  Part of the methane and greenhouse gas emissions are created by the trucks, planes, trains, boats, etc. that transport our food.  Have some space on the side of the house?  A balcony that gets sun?  Try your hand at gardening and bypass the middle-man and know where your food is coming from!

With just a few small changes and creative ways to utilize your waste, you too can be a part of reducing the stress on the environment while repairing the soil and creating the best organic fertilizer on the planet!


*Statistics from the USDA that are discussed in this post can be found at:

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How to Solve ALMOST All Your Worm Bin Woes With Bedding

We have all been there.  Some of us more than others.  We are shaking our heads and feeling defeated, deflated and utterly ticked off at our worm bins and their problems.  Starting out vermicomposting before finding many of the resources I use today, I was completely lost.  I had one book on the topic and had found one forum which had minimal interaction and slow feedback time.  I would be sitting up, waiting to get the “expert opinions” on how to fix my problems.

Fast forward a year or so and I have found that there is one ultimate (not so secret) fix for all the troubles that effect our worm bin efforts.  Bedding.  Yep, that’s right.  Bedding can make or break you.  Sounds kind of extreme, but I beg to differ… bedding can be the solution for most of the problems you run into when raising composting worms.

Many issues that afflict the worm bin ecosystem are related to poor feeding habits (a story for another day), and not utilizing bedding to it’s highest potential.  Read on to see some major problems that can be remedied with simple adjustments to your worm bedding.

What is Worm Bedding

As most of us know, in a worm bin we try to balance carbon sources (bedding) and nitrogen sources (foods).  The complex nature of those ratios is far less important to understand unless you are looking to sell your castings with a perfect makeup of nutrients and bio-availability to soil.  Sounds complicated and it is, which is fine because I am not in that business.

Bedding can be any number of readily available resources.  Leaves, grass, garden waste, newspaper, paper towels, cardboard, egg crates, peat moss, coconut coir, and many others.  For sake of this post I am going to focus on the resources I typically use in my bins: cardboard, newspaper, egg crates and coconut coir since these are what I have the most experience with.

Solving Moisture Problems in the Worm Bin

I remember the fateful day that as a new vermicomposter I added a healthy amount of watermelon to my stackable tray system along with my usual handful of shredded newspaper.  I went about my day and woke up the next morning to an all out flood that had come out of my spigot, filling the catch tray and had overflowed onto the floor.

On the other end of the spectrum, more recently I purchased my first continuous flow through (bag style) system.  I was a little overzealous adding tons of coconut coir and ended up with the Sahara Desert in my system.  Worm were no where to be found and the food was a matted mess up top with the coir.  The worms were fine, but they had burrowed deep into the bag where it was still moist and they could survive.

What was my underlying mistake in these scenarios?  Bedding.

In an overly wet bin, adding a good amount of dry bedding and mixing it into the muddy sludge is the best way to absorb the excess and to help restore a balance that will result in nice flaky, damp castings.

On the flip side, not understanding your bedding can result in a dry bin.  As I was trying to fix what I thought was a slightly wet system resulted in me drying it out too much!

How do you figure this equation out?  Understand your bedding and the proper moisture level that you should have in your bins and you will rarely run into moisture problems.  An appropriate bedding should be damp but not dripping.  Most people describe it as a wrung-out sponge.  When you pick some up and squeeze it you should only get a few drops of water out.

So when you find yourself with a wet bin, add small amounts of dry bedding and monitor until the bedding is lightly moist and the castings restore to a nice damp consistency.  When the bedding is too dry, soak some cardboard, newspaper or egg crates in water and add it to the bin over the course of a few days until the dry bedding has absorbed some of the extra moisture and again, the balance is restored.

How Bedding Can Fix Bug Problems 

I may be the worst person to ask about bugs in the worm bin.  I am phobic of most bugs which in retrospect is hysterical because I was somehow under the impression that my worm bin would be bug-free and flourish.  Jokes on me, the worm bin is a complex ecosystem which houses way more bugs and micro-organisms than worms!

I have found myself in quite a number of pickles related to bugs over the course of my vermicomposting journey.  I am admittedly not very good at sufficiently burying my scraps which can lead to bug nightmares for those of us with phobias of the creepy-crawlers.  The main solution to minimizing the population of mites, springtails and flies is bedding.

Without adequate bedding to cover your feedings, fruit flies can find their way in to the worm bins.  These critters in particular are a royal pain in the backside to get rid of.  The flies lay eggs in the yummy produce in the bins and before long you have a true nuisance on your hands.  I have found that when a bug problem reaches epic proportions (see my videos on springtails and mites for reference) adding a thick layer of DRY bedding on top of your bin severely inhibits the capability of the flies getting down to the feeding to lay eggs and it smothers out the hatchlings from being able to make it out.  BOOM: problem (mostly) solved.

How Bedding Can Solve the Problem of a Food Shortage

When your worms are eating you out of house and home it can become a difficult road to walk.  Take it from me.  A household of two, we do not create nearly enough food waste to keep all 14 of my bins fed.  I am lucky to have a number of friends and relatives who save scraps for me, but nonetheless I still run into the occasional food shortage.

Fret not, bedding is also food for your worms.  Why do you think you end up with lovely black compost that is devoid of all signs of paper and cardboard?  The worms eat that too!  Whenever I find myself low on food, I err on too much bedding.  I personally feel it is NEARLY impossible to over-bed the worms.  Overfeeding is a problem, adding too much bedding is usually pretty harmless and provides your worms with something to munch on until your next banana peel is ready to be thrown into the bin.

I am Travelling and Worried My Worms Will Starve      

This is almost impossible.  Short of a 6 month trip, its pretty hard to starve your bin and thus kill it off.  I have seen some videos on people who have neglected to even open a bin in nearly a year and there were still worms flourishing in the bin.  People tend to worry and over-feed their bins prior to a trip.  This is a common mistake.  Over-feeding can create a hot, anaerobic and acidic environment which CAN kill the worms.

If you are travelling, resist the urge to feed your worms a bucket of scraps.  Add a normal feeding and double-up on your usual bedding amount.  I can assure you, your worms will be alive and thriving on your return.

The Takeaway

There are plenty of problems that can be solved using various methods however the most simple and basic in my mind is too consider your bedding.  Do you have enough of it?  Are you using it to its greatest potential?  Consider your bedding type, absorbancy factor, and how much you can use to try and trouble-shoot your worm bin problems.  Happy Worming!  Load up that cardboard!

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5 Things I Wish I Knew Before Starting Worm Composting

 Using worms for composting can be an amazing way to reduce your waste!  Worm composting not only puts your scraps to use but creates an amazing and organic fertilizer for your soil and gardens as well.

The thought of bringing “worms” into your home (or even outdoors) makes some people a bit squeamish.  I get it.  I was that person too.  I was petrified of worms invading my house, bringing in pests, smelling, or otherwise being a royal waste of time.

I researched the idea/concept of indoor worm composting for hours on end and I decided to take the leap.  I haven’t looked back since, I continue to grow my “collection” of worms and my passion is only amplified the longer I do this.

All of this being said, my perception of what this hobby would be like and the actual reality were quite different.  Let us look at some of the things I wish I knew before I started putting my worms to work.

  1. Starting Small and Cheap is the way to go

I had this big dream of producing buckets and buckets of castings every month.  I felt like due to my “research”, the only way to do this was to buy an expensive system.  Don’t get me wrong, I love all of my systems in their own ways, but the “simplicity” aspects of commercial systems aren’t always as advertised.

Later, I learned that some super cheap and DIY systems using Rubbermaid totes work just as well as the larger systems and would have probably been a good place to start.  If it hadn’t worked out for me I wouldn’t have been out quite so much money.  For $10-$15 dollars I could make my own bin.

2. You Don’t Always Have to Buy Your Worms

I bought my worms from a commercial company I found on Amazon.  For a pound of worms I paid roughly $40.  Not terrible, but I know now that it can often be easier to get worms from a friend, local garden club, or smaller companies that have better customer service and better prices.

I learned from my experiences on Facebook forums that many big commercial worm farmers don’t have “pure” breeds of worms and they short your order.  Who’s going to actually count 1,000 worms (1 pound) or think about throwing them on a scale when all they can think about it putting their new babies into the bins?

Worms I have bought since my initial investment have all been much healthier and purer breeds and when I weigh them, they are often even more generous than advertised.  As much as 1.5 pounds or 1,500 worms in an order.

I have given worms to many local friends I have met and I think this can be a great way to save money and meet friends that have similar interests to you.

3. Patience is Probably the Most Important Tip When Getting Started

Let’s face it, big dreams and your desire to try and reduce your waste overnight is super appealing.  I know when I started, I was stock-piling fruit and veggie scraps and loading my freezer down with a backlog.  I would break down when the freezer was busting at the seams and end up overfeeding.

Overfeeding is probably the biggest worm composting mistake.  So many problems stemmed from my inability to control my excitement.  I had systems flood out from all the water waste my scraps would release.  The bin would heat up and my worms would go running for the exits.  It caused me stress.

Starting worm composting brand new, you have to take into account the fact that microbial activity and breeding don’t happen overnight.  I could only realistically feed my 1,000 worms a cup a week when I began.  Keep in mind that once the worms start doing their thing, population booms and the system takes off.

Around the three month mark I noticed that my worms were managing my waste much quicker and the number of worms I had was going up noticeably.

All things worthwhile take time, right?  We have all heard it.  I wish I would have reminded myself of that early on.  I would have been much more successful in taking off had I not pushed the system and stressed the worms out.

4. The Worm Bin is an Ecosystem

Okay, I am the first to admit that I am a major nut when it comes to bugs.  Even the beneficial guys get wars waged against them in my house.  We had some ants one summer and I had the house bombed and invested in $60 monthly pest services the same day I spotted that one rogue ant.

That being said, I was quickly in for a rude awakening when it came to the “bug free” systems I imagined in my dreams.  Do not panic!  I was literally at the point where I was ready to dump the worms and quit the day that I spotted that first mite.  It’s normal to be caught off guard when you start seeing helpful additions to your worm bin.  Mites, pot worms, fruit flies, small beetles, and springtails have all made appearances in my bins.  Sometimes in large numbers.

These bugs have ZERO interest in leaving the buffet in front of them.  I have never seen a single mite or any other bug anywhere but in the bins.  As you learn more about the ecosystem of a worm bin you start to appreciate the whole process behind it.

Nearly all pests in a worm bin are simply helping the process along.  These small bugs help in the breakdown process of the food waste in the bin.  A worm bin is teeming with beneficial micro-organisms (most of which aren’t visible with the naked eye) and they are not in fact a nuisance, but a crucial player in a well-running system.

I won’t lie, I still get the creepy-crawlies on occasion when I have a boom of certain worm bin bugs but I am learning to appreciate each and every one of them.  You can manage the numbers of these pests with good worm bin maintenance, but I would never suggest freaking out or throwing in the towel because the ecosystem is working in your favor!

5. Worms Are Very Forgiving

If you are anything like me, you get your new babies into their home and the desire to check on them every 15 minutes is real deal.  I was obsessed.  I poked around multiple times a day, dug up food and re-buried it a hundred times over to see the progress.  I definitely inhibited the process for quite some time before I was able to resist the urge to make sure they were still alive 500 times a day.

I was reading everywhere that checking on them could do more harm than good.  I was told that digging around could damage the worms or trigger an exodus.  I was legitimately worrying constantly.  I even had frequent dreams about the worms (I know, I am quite the loony anomaly) you get my point.

I realize now, the longer that I do this, that worms are ultra-forgiving.  Worms are not the delicate creatures that some articles, blogs, or forums may make us think.  Through digging, overfeeding, a frightful day where I shoved frozen food in the bin… all of it, my worms flourished anyway.

I continue to dig through my bins at least once a week (per bin or system).  I turn the bedding up, handle the worms and continue to make mistakes… it happens.  I have yet to kill a single worm (to my knowledge) and my worm population keeps going up.  I raise 4 different types of worms and all of them are surviving the learning curve just fine.

The Takeaway:

There are lots of misconceptions and bad information out there.  There are many acceptable ways of handling your worm bins and I personally don’t consider any one way to be “best”.

The process of worm composting isn’t nearly as complicated as it sounds when you just start researching it.

  • You don’t need expensive systems!  Starting out with a DIY is a great way to test the waters before going all-in.
  • You don’t need to pay an arm and a leg for worms if it isn’t in your budget.  Ask around, order from small companies or just buy a few hundred worms to keep it all within a financially sound purchase.
  • With patience and time you will be processing loads of compost for the garden, so don’t rush it!  It CAN be frustrating, but when your worms start mating like crazy, you will be shocked what even a small system can do for you!
  • The Worm Bin is an ecosystem.  Learn to embrace it!  Don’t let the bugs freak you out.  There are very few bugs that should be considered a problem.  Observe the bin and you will soon realize that the worms play well with others.
  • Don’t worry about your worms too much, they can handle quite a bit!  I don’t suggest testing torture treatments on them, but even through trial and error, there isn’t much you can do that will truly hurt them.

Happy Worming!


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How to Make Your Own Worm Bin

There are many commercial worm bin/systems to buy, however many of these systems are pricey and often you may not want to spend that type of money.  If you are new to worm composting, making your own DIY bin can be a great option and is relatively cheap to do.  In this post I will share the steps to creating your very own tote-style worm bin on a budget, step by step.

  • Choosing the Type and Size of Tote
  • Preparing the Tote
  • Choosing a Bedding
  • Preparing the Bedding
  • Prepping the Bin for the Worms
  • Adding the Worms

Let’s get started.

1. Considering the Type and Size Bin to Use:

When it comes to DIY worm bins, you can use a variety of things that you may already have laying around the house.  Many people use Rubbermaid (or similar tote-style bins) to make their worm bin.  You can also use things such as mortar trays, plastic barrels, crates, or even something as simple as a grow bag.  For sake of this particular post, I am going to talk about Rubbermaid totes.

When purchasing or using a Rubbermaid tote, size definitely matters!  You want to take into account how many worms you will have in the bin and what your end-goal is.  Do you want the most possible castings, do you want to grow the biggest and fattest worms, or do you want to start small to experiment with the hobby on your own?

I made a tote for my African Night Crawlers.  African Night Crawlers reproduce quickly and are voracious eaters.  Because of this, I chose a larger 18 gallon tote.  I also plan to use these worms for bait as well, so a large bin will give the worms plenty of space to grow large and reproduce.  Keep in mind that a tote of this size will get very heavy as it fills with compost.  If you think you will be moving your tote around frequently or have limitations to how much you want to carry, you may decide that a smaller tote is more suited to your needs.

Your tote should be opaque as the worms like a dark environment.  Worms shy away from light and thus clear bins (although cool for kids to see through the bin) are not best suited for worm composting.  Keep in mind that roughly a pound of worms need at least 1 square foot of surface area living environment.  If you want them to reproduce, they will need even more.

2. Preparing the Tote:

Regardless of the type of bin you decide to make, you need to keep in mind that worms need an environment with plenty of aeration.  Some people choose to leave the lid off of their tote completely but others (as myself) chose to drill many holes in the sides and lid to provide the air-flow needed.

To drill the holes, I recommend using nothing smaller that 1/4 inch.  I used a drill bit and drilled approximately 18 holes on each side of my bin (in 2 rows along the upper portion of the bin below the lip.  I also drilled holes on either end in the same fashion.

I drilled holes covering the entire lid of my system as well.  This will ensure that the bin doesn’t get overly wet and that the worms have an environment suitable to their needs.  As worms breathe through their skin, they need moisture but also lots of air!

If you create a bin and find that your worms are crawling up the sides, oftentimes this is a sign that they need more oxygen.  There are other possible reasons as well, but start with adding more holes if this problem arises.

3. Bedding:

The next thing to consider after drilling holes in your tote is to decide what type of bedding (carbon material) you want to use in your bin.  If you want to use things you already have, this is a great way to recycle and turn your trash into beautiful worm castings for your plants and garden.

Bedding can consist of shredded newspaper or junk mail (avoid the glossy ads), egg crates, toilet paper/paper towel rolls, and cardboard.  These are all 100% free options that I use frequently in my own bins.

Other options for bedding include leaf litter, manure (aged), peat moss, dried grass clippings, garden waste or coconut coir.  Keep in mind that things such as manure, leaves and grass clippings have the potential to introduce bugs to your bin.  This may not be a problem if you are composting outdoors, but for indoor bins these may not be ideal.

4. Preparing the Bedding:

Once you have made your bin, providing adequate aeration and once you have decided on your bedding, you are ready to prepare the bedding and place it in the bin.

An ideal worm bedding should be moist like a wrung-out sponge.  I used egg crates, shredded cardboard, and coconut coir for my bin.  I soaked the bedding in water for about 20 minutes.  I then picked up a handful of bedding and squeezed it.  I added water until when I squeezed the bedding mixture I got 3-5 drops of water from it but no more.  If you over-moisten your bedding you can wring it out before adding it to your bin or you can add additional dry bedding to soak up the excess moisture.

Once you have the bedding moistened, add several inches to the bottom of your bin.  I try to fill my bin approximately halfway to provide lots of living space before adding my worms.

5. Prepping the Bin for the Worms:

Ideally, you will set up your worm bin prior to the arrival of your worms.  Allow the bedding to sit in the bin for several days with a small amount of food mixed in.  This will allow the bacteria and microbes to get to work before the worms arrive.  This creates an environment that allows the worms to get to work right away after being introduced to the bin.  If you order a pound of worms, simply start with a small amount of food (no more than 1/4 cup).  Make sure that all food in your bin is adequately covered with bedding material so that fruit flies or other pests don’t enter the bin.

If you didn’t prepare your bin in advance, don’t worry.  Simply introduce your worms and wait a few days before adding any food.

6. Adding the Worms:

Once you have finished preparing your bedding and allowed the bin to rest for a few days, it is time to add your worms.  If you ordered worms, keep in mind that the travel through the mail can have them quite stressed.  As mentioned earlier, worms shy away from light.  Simply dump your worms (gently) onto the surface of the bedding and allow them burrow down on their own.  Keeping the lid off and light on for a few days above the bin should minimize the risk of any adventurous worms trying to leave the bin.  After a few days if the worms seem to be doing well, you can place the lid on the bin if you desire.

Get Started:

You can easily set up a worm bin in an hour or less.  A simple Rubbermaid or Sterlite bin should run you no more than $15 to $20, often even cheaper.  Use a free source of bedding around the house and the only further expense may be the purchase of your worms.  An even better option is to reach out to local gardening clubs or farmers markets to see if you can get worms locally.  Many worm farmers are more than happy to share worms with newcomers, as mentioned before, worms multiply quickly!

Enjoy the fruits of your labor and feed your worms weekly.  Make sure that all of the previous feeding is (mostly) gone before adding more food.  Adjust to the worms needs according to how much they are eating.  Remember that bedding is also a food source for your worms.  Under-feeding is much better than overfeeding.  Worms are pretty forgiving and before long you will be cranking out compost like an old pro!